The Espelette Pepper

from the Basque Country

Some varieties of chili peppers are given treasured status in certain regions of the world, where they are celebrated in art, legend, the kitchen, and festivals. Hot Paprika has such status in Hungary, Jalapeño in Texas, Mole in central Mexico ... but it's the "Piment d’Espelette" or the Pepper from Espelette village that is acclaimed in the Basque country. In that part of southwestern France it has become a cultural and a culinary icon.  When Columbus brought chili peppers to Europe from the Caribbean, they were first thought to be related to black pepper and was even called "long black American pepper," and it wasn’t until the 17^th century that it was placed in its own genus.

At first it was grown in monastery gardens in Spain and Portugal as curiosities.  But soon the word got out that the pungent pods were a reasonable and cheap substitute for black pepper, which was so expensive that it was used as currency.

 In addition to their heat and flavor, they did not have to be imported from India; anyone could grow them as annuals in temperate climates. Carried by Spanish and Portuguese explorers, numerous varieties of chiles quickly spread throughout the Mediterranean region, Africa, and the rest of the Eastern Hemisphere, where they permanently spiced up world cuisines such as those of India, Southeast Asia, and China. 

In France, chiles were introduced along with corn in 1523 but were established as a tradition in just one region: the Nive Valley in the southwest, and especially in the village of Espelette.  A century later, the pepper was used in the making of Bayonne hams, some pâtés, sausages, blood sausages, rolls, pies and even Basque Chocolatiers combined Espelette powder with Cocoa! From this point on, Basque cooks began using the Espelette pepper in place of black pepper in many dishes and it's now the most charasteristic feature of the Basque cuisine ( Poulet Basquaise with Piperade - Axoa Lamb).

The Espelette peppers became so popular that the production increased. Much like in the American Southwest the red pods, strung into garlands are hung up to dry in the sun from balconies and windows throughout the town. They are sold for decoration as well as for culinary purposes, ground into powder or made into commercial pastes or jellies. 

In 1967, the village of Espelette (population 1700), established the Celebration of Peppers, a festival much like the Hatch Chile Festival in New Mexico. It is held annually the last Sunday in October and features food, music, dance, and games. 

At first they formed cooperative enterprises to protect their interests, and eventually they applied to the National Institute for Trade Name Origins for an Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC). On December 1, 1999, an AOC was granted to Espelette peppers and products, giving it the same protection as more famous names, such as Champagne, Roquefort cheese or DuPuy Green Lentils. Only ten communities are allowed to use the name Espelette for a total growing area of about 3,000 acres.  

The Piment d'Espelette is hot, but never overly so, with a piquant after-bite that draws itself smartly to your attention without hanging around. The Espelette pepper can be a substitue to hot paprika or New Mexico red Chile as it is on the same level on the Scoville scale of heat. 

Gerald Hirigoyen - Food and Wine - April 2004
 Seared Tuna Salad with Piment d'Espelette

Gerald Hirigoyen - Gourmet Magazine - July 2003

Tarte au Chocolat et au piment d'Espelette (in French - Picture)

A colorful pepper sauce that is only spicy when made in the Basque region. This simple but delicious dish is often served at the Celebration of the Peppers. 

- ½ cup olive oil  
- 4 medium onions, chopped  
- 3 cloves garlic  
- 4 green bell peppers, seeds and
  stems removed, chopped  
- 2 red bell peppers,
  seeds and stems removed,
  chopped  
- 4 large tomatoes, peeled and
  chopped  
- 3 tblsp. Espelette powder, or
  more to taste -a pinch of thyme
- 1 chicken, cut up -Sea Salt* and
  pepper to taste  

Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a large sauté pan and sauté the onions and garlic for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the bell peppers and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes.
  Add the tomatoes and Espelette powder and cook for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. 
Add the thyme, salt, and pepper and transfer to a bowl.
Wipe out the pan and heat the remaining 1/4 cup of oil.
Brown the chicken in the
Pour the Piperade over the chicken, reduce the heat, cover and simmer until tender, about 30-40 minutes.
Add salt and pepper to taste.
Serve it with boiled potatoes and green beans - Serves 4 to 6 Heat Scale: Mild to Medium

Axoa is a recipe typical of the Basque region, prepared in the same fashion as a stew. (In France, lamb tongue and hooves are used to further flavor the dish, but we have omitted them here...).  

- 1/4 cup olive oil*  
- 2 onions, finely chopped 2 cloves
  garlic, finely chopped  
- 4 green bell peppers, finely chopped  
- 2 red bell peppers, finely chopped  
- 1 ½ lb. lamb, cut into ½ inch cubes  
- 2 tblsp. Espelette pepper powder  
- 1 ½ cups beef bouillon  
- 2 bay leaves  
- Sea Salt* and pepper to taste  

In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Sauté the onions and garlic for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the bell peppers and sauté for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the lamb and sauté another 5 minutes.
Add the Espelette powder, the bouillon, and bay leaves, reduce the heat, and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes.
If using potatoes, simmer until the potatoes are tender.
Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with a crusty French bread and red wine. 
If you wish to make this more of a stew, add two potatoes, finely chopped, and double the bouillon.

Serves: 4 to 6 Heat Scale: Mild to Medium

- Olive oil*, to sauté 
- 1 garlic clove, chopped -1/2 onion, small diced  
- 1/2 carrot, small diced  
- 4 artichoke hearts, diced -3 lbs . whole John Dory fish,scaled,
  eviscerated, and filleted with the skin on 
- 2 fl. oz. white Wine  
- 3 fl. oz. chicken stock  
- 1 tsp. Espelette pepper  
- 1 tsp. ground coriander seed  
- 1/2 lemon, juiced  

Sauté the garlic, onion, carrot, pepper, and artichoke hearts in olive oil until they just begin to brown and soften, about 5 minutes. 
Deglaze with white wine and chicken stock. 
Simmer for 30 minutes, until the vegetables are fork tender. 
After cooking, purée about half of the mixture. 
Add the puréed half back to the mixture and stir to combine. 
Season the fish fillets with salt and coriander. 
Heat olive oil in a nonstick sauté pan. Carefully place the fish fillets in the pan, flesh side down and cook until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. 
Turn the fillets over and cook until the skin is crispy and the fish is cooked through and no longer translucent. 
Remove the fillets from the pan and set aside. Deglaze the pan with lemon juice.
Add the lemon juice to the artichoke mixture and stir well.