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Cherries are one of the world's oldest cultivated fruits. The great epicure Lucullus introduced the cherry to Europe around 70 BC. The tree was beloved by the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans both for its beautiful flowers and its versatile fruit. The fall of the Roman Empire caused a great decline in cherry cultivation. To avoid its extinction King Charles V of France planted over one thousand cherry trees in his gardens in the mid-1500s.
Nowadays cherries come in hundreds of varieties that have descended from two main wild species native from western Asia: sweet or sour cherries. Sweet cherries can be eaten directly from the tree. Sour cherries are used mainly to make jams, syrups, preserves and liquors.
Because Cherries are a delicate fruit, they require specific growing conditions. These demands are perfectly met in fertile well-watered valleys located in Italy and France where warm days and cool nights, combined with the expertise of modern technology, produce the finest quality of sour cherries in the world.
Juicy with an attractive soft glossy deep red, brandied sour cherries are very popular throughout France. They are served in small glasses as "digestif", an after-dinner drink. As they have an excellent flavor when cooked, many chefs keep a jar handy to perk up sauces, meat, and desserts.
Cherries are a source of fiber and offer a good amount of potassium, iron, and calcium.
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A typical homey bistro dessert
- 2-½
cup (18 oz.) Brandied Cherries, drained
- ½
cup + 1 tbsp. sugar
- 1
cup whole milk
- 4
large eggs + 1 egg yolk
- 1
tsp. vanilla extract
- 4
tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
- 1
tsp. grated lemon peel
- ½
tsp. almond extract (optional)
Preheat oven to 325°F. Generously butter a shallow 1-½ quart
glass or ceramic baking dish. Combine cherries with 1 tbsp. of sugar in a medium
bowl; toss to coat. Arrange cherries in the bottom of the prepared dish. Whisk
eggs and the remaining ½ cup of sugar in large bowl to blend. Add milk, butter,
lemon peel, and extracts; whisk until smooth. Pour the custard over cherries.
Bake until set in center and golden on top, about 55 minutes. (Don't worry when
the cherry juice bubbles up and colors the batter in spots, its part of the
dessert's rustic charm). Serve warm.
Note: This baked cherry pudding is prepared throughout
central France. Recipes vary greatly from one village to another. For a cake
like topping add 1/3 cup flour to the recipe.
Though cherries are traditional, any fruit in syrup* can
be used
One of the best dishes to come out
of France!
Nothing cuts the richness of duck more agreeably than this sweet
and sour sauce.
- 4
boneless duck breast
- Sea
Salt* &
Freshly cracked black peppercorn
- ¼
cup red wine
- ¼
cup drained brandied cherries
- 4
tbsp. soy sauce
- 6
tbsp. redcurrant jelly
- 1
lemon zest
- 2
tbsp. rendered goose fat* (or butter)
With a sharp knife score the skin of the duck breast, approx. ¾
inch deep. Sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper. Place in a large nonstick
skillet over medium heat. When very hot add the duck breast, skin side down and
brown until the skin is crisp (7 minutes). Reduce heat and turn the duck
breast over. Cook until the meat is slightly pink inside (4 more minutes).
Transfer the duck breast to a warmed plate and cover them with aluminum foil.
Pour off ½ the fat from the skillet and return the rest on high heat. Add the
wine and stir in the cherries, the jelly, soy sauce and lemon zest. Bring the
mixture to a boil over medium heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom
of the pan with a wooden spoon. Cook, mashing some of the cherries with the back
of the spoon until the jelly is dissolved and the sauce syrupy (4 to 5 minutes).
Collect the juice from the duck plate into the pan and then whisk in rendered
goose fat. Finish the sauce with a squeeze of lemon and season with salt and
pepper to taste. Remove from heat. Slice the duck breast on the diagonal into ¼
inches thick. Fan the slices out on warmed dinner plates and spoon the sauce
over the duck breasts. Serve at once with roasted potatoes and salad tossed
walnuts.
Note:
All dishes "à la Montmorency"
are characterized by magnificent sauce. The seemingly unusual pairing of
cherries and black peppercorn is quite felicitous. For an ultimate eating
experience glaze pork chops or bake ham with this sauce.
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A
frosty fantasy that will reveal a luscious packed interior
- 2
pints of Dark Chocolate Ice Cream
- ½
cup Brandied Cherries, drained
- Loc
Maria gourmet wafers*
- Confectioner’s
sugar
Let one pint of the ice cream softened at room temperature. When
it reaches a spreadable texture spread it evenly in the bottom of 1-1/2 quart
loaf pan, cover with plastic wrap and freeze until hard. Scatter the cherries on
top of this first frozen layer and cover with the second softened pint of ice
cream. Cover with plastic wrap and refreeze. To unmold the terrine, dip the
bottom of the pan into warm water then invert it on dish. Sprinkle confectioner’s
sugar and garnish with some delicious Loc Maria wafers.
Dense and very moist
this cake is among the most popular desserts in NYC right now. The combination
of brandied cherries and the deep flavor of dark chocolate makes this rendition
of chocolate cake absolutely delightful.
- 1
cup brandied cherries (2/3 cherries & 1/3 brandy)
- 12
oz. bittersweet or semisweet chocolate*
- 4
oz. (1 stick) unsalted butter
- 6
large eggs, separated
- 3/4
cup + 2 tbsp. granulated sugar
- ¼
cup + 2 tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted
- Various
garnishes
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line the bottom of a buttered 10 by
2" round cake pan with parchment paper and butter paper. In a metal bowl
set over a saucepan of barely simmering water melt chopped chocolate and butter,
stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and cool mixture. In a bowl with an
electric mixer beat the egg yolks and ½ cup sugar until light and fluffy. Add
chocolate mixture and stir until well combined. Fold in cocoa powder until
combined well but do not over mix. In another bowl beat the egg whites until
they hold soft peaks and beat in the remaining sugar in a slow stream until the
meringue holds stiff peaks. Stir about one fourth of the meringue into chocolate
mixture to lighten and fold in remaining meringue gently but thoroughly. Fold in
cherries. Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, smoothing top, and bake 40
minutes, or until center is just set. Let the cake cool on the rack 15 minutes
then run a thin knife around the edge of the pan. Invert the cake onto a rack to
cool completely. Lightly dust slivers with confectioner’s sugar and garnish
with any of the following: Chantilly cream, Vanilla and/or hazelnut ice cream,
mini pears, mint leaves…
Note: It is best
to make this cake one day ahead to set the flavor and texture.
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